Portland’s Small Brewers Add Diversity

Portland is rich with a diversity of beers and brew pubs, perhaps uniquely so on the planet. The Oregon Brewer’s Guild lists 15 brewpubs and 33 breweries within the city limits and several more in the surrounding area.

We can all name the big guys – Widmer Brothers, MacTarnahan’s, McMenamin’s, Bridgeport – but what if you want to explore something different? Maybe a pub with a little more of a neighborhood feel, or a beer style you haven’t tried before? In that case, try the “little guys” – small-batch brews from innovative new brewers, and some of the tiny brew pubs with a simple menu and a neighborhood feel.

The pubs

There are seven brew pubs in Portland with brewing output of under 700 barrels, and they cross all five of Portland’s “quadrants.”

Clinton Street Brewing is the tiniest of the bunch, with a brew system and annual output barely larger than many homebrewers’. Attached to the Clinton Street Theater, this brewery is so small and new that they haven’t repeated a single beer on tap. Every visit, then, will be a unique tasting experience.

The Mash Tun, Portland’s newest, has only been brewing since January. Sporting 12 taps including an array of guest taps, cider, and mead, they serve all-natural Cascade beef burgers and free-range chicken wings. “It’s just a comfortable place to hang out,” says brewer Christian Bravard.

Unique among the little guys is Yamhill Brewing’s Ninth Street Ale house, which allows smoking. Yamhill sports live music in the evenings, with Blues Night on Wednesdays and open mike on Mondays. Pints are only two bucks on Mondays and Tuesdays and parking is plentiful.

Tugboat, downtown’s tiny “drinking-allowed” library, also has live music in the evenings – jazz, in particular. Founded in 1993, it has stayed small by choice, emphasizing its unpretentious environment, a simple, hearty (and mostly vegetarian) menu, and a variety of beers. Usually there are about a half-dozen Tugboat brews and ten guest taps pouring at any given time.

Amnesia on booming N. Mississippi also has live music and a simple menu: burgers, dogs, and Old Country Sausage bratwurst. I can attest to their veggie dogs; they’re quite good. Their outdoor seating is just like the inside – picnic tables – but heated well enough to sit outside even in winter. Bring your laptop – all of Mississippi Avenue has free wireless.

Roots Organic Brewing on SE 7th just off Hawthorne claims to be Oregon’s first organic brewery. The menu sports deli sandwiches and Hot Lips pizza, plus PBJ’s and hot dogs for the kids. For the grown-ups, their aggressively flavored brews include “Woody” IPA (73 IBU’s), their Island Red “Red Stout,” and 8.6% ABV Imperial Stout and a Heather Ale.

Most of these pubs focus on the beer. Philadelphia’s is food-first and family-friendly, specializing in cheesesteaks and similar grub. They’re also open for breakfast. Beer with your bacon? Hey, it’s always noon somewhere.

Just out of town

Karlsson’s Brewing just opened in Sandy, Oregon. This family-owned brewpub features a warm, cozy atmosphere with Brazilian Cherry booths seating 35 for English-style grub such as chicken pot pies, beef pasties and Scotch Eggs.

Fearless Brewing Company in Estacada features a burger-and-fries sort of menu and its signature strong ales such as their strong Scotch Ale and Maibock. Each night they feature a new “buck-fifty special,” worth checking out if you’re in the area. Owner and brewer Ken Johnson describes their half-pound burger as a “heart attack in a basket.”

The Breweries

Perhaps the most famous of Portland’s small breweries is Hair of the Dog, whose first beer, Adam, was cited as one of beer writer Michael Jackson’s favorite beers. Their Fred, a 10% ABV deep golden ale, was created to honor beer writer and historian Fred Eckhardt Find their beers in places like Higgins, Rose and Raindrop, and the Horse Brass.

Tuck’s on SW Capitol Highway is known for its creative brews such as its Raspberry Vanilla Imperial Stout and King’s Kolsch. However, brewer Max Tieger is soon (at this writing) to be departing to open his own brewery in Tigard, Max’s Fanno Creek Brewpub. Expect them to open sometime during the 2006-07 ski season.

Click here for a summary table with details on each of the breweries mentioned here.